Discover the Serpolet, a thousand with a thousand flavors

Small, I only knew thyme that of the garden, with a familiar and comforting scent. Later, I discovered the wild thyme – the Serpolet – on the limestone hillsides of the Beauceronne valleys, among sparse juniers. I liked to offend the tufts of its purple flowers between my fingers which gave off a warm and powerful fragrance, evocative of the countries of the sun. I lived at the stadium of olfactory appreciation. It is only once the adolescence that I have started to systematically explore the riches of our flora.

I learned then that the Serpolet was one of the rare condiments to push under the high latitudes, where the Lapons used it to flavor the curd of reindeer. Not having this basic ingredient, I used the flowery tops of this wild thyme to raise the flavor of various salted dishes (salad sauces, vegetable stews, cereal pancakes) or sweet (yogurt and white cheese, flans and creams). My experiences were always successful, provided, however, for the cooked dishes, to add the Serpolet at the start and then at the end of cooking, because its aromatic essence, which gives it its flavor, is extremely volatile and does not resist high temperatures. It is this same essence which gives the plant its stimulating, expectorant and digestive virtues.

A singular genetic formula

By sniffing the different tufts of Serpolet that crossed my path, I realized that they were raising very varied odors, ranging from pleasant lemony scents with strong hints of rancid butter, passing through oregano, mushroom and cologne. This singularity does not come from specific terroirs, but from the genetic formula specific to each individual, which determines the composition of its aromatic essences. The latter may have marked differences according to the abundance of various odoriferous substances. We then speak of chemical races, or chemotypes, which are part of the same species, even distinct species when the genetic barrier prevents these groups from reproducing each other.

One of my favorite milestones is undoubtedly the “Erba-Barona” of the high mountains of Corse, whose rolling emanates a subtle smell of citrus and cumin. It is one of the most remarkable island condiments, the taste value of which begins to be recognized by creative cooks.

First publication of this text in the magazine Plants and health.