Will Shein finish off French ready-to-wear brands?
The arrival of the Chinese giant at BHV Marais is causing a shock wave in the sector. Brand departures, breakdown of partnerships, ultra-competitive economic model… Deciphering a major upheaval for French fashion.
- Shein, the Chinese disposable fashion giant, opened a space at BHV Marais in Paris on November 5, 2025. The event sparked a storm: ten brands announced their departure from the department store to protest against this arrival. Shein also planned to establish itself in several regional Galeries Lafayette, operated by the Société des grands stores (SGM). But on November 4, 2025, the two groups ended their partnership: the seven Galeries Lafayette concerned (Angers, Dijon, Grenoble, Le Mans, Limoges, Orléans and Reims) will soon change their name.
- The Shein wave is real. The company claims 23 million customers in France. France is now its first market in Europe. “We have never seen a company gain so much market share,” analyzes Gildas Minvielle, director of the economic observatory of the French Fashion Institute. Its model is unbeatable: a Shein garment costs on average 7 euros, and nearly 9,000 new references are offered online every day.
- Should we see this as the end of Pimkie, Kiabi or Etam? The threat is serious, because the evil is ancient. For twenty years, French ready-to-wear has failed to respond to the revolutions it is undergoing. Crisis in purchasing power, explosion of online and second-hand commerce (Vinted)… French brands have missed several turns. Many continued to open stores as consumers shifted online. The traditional double collection “spring-summer” and “autumn-winter” no longer meets customers’ continual renewal needs. Another French handicap which increases sales prices: high labor costs and utilities.
- However, some brands are resisting, those that have remained family-owned, such as the Beaumanoir group (Caroll, La Halle). Their strategy quickly shifted towards e-commerce, maintaining good value for money, and offering products that meet consumers’ desires. The State is not without recourse. On November 6, 2025, the government initiated proceedings to suspend the Shein platform for the sale of child pornography dolls and bladed weapons. He also plans to tax imported packages. France is not powerless but, to save its ready-to-wear, it will have to rethink its model.
