The return of restaurants at low prices

Vinaigrette leeks, mayonnaise egg, bourguignon beef, small salty lentils, rice in milk, floating island … who would have believed it? Erased from the cards as they seemed old -fashioned, these traditional, simple and economical dishes make the heyday of the broths. Very popular at the end of the 19th century, these restaurants experienced a new youth in Paris and in the big cities of France.

Against the back of the drop in purchasing power, the recipe for success is in three adjectives: “It’s good, cheap and fast”, sums up Pascal Mousset, president for the Île-de-France of the Hotel and Restorations Grouping from France.

Attendant with his friend Jonathan at the Bouillon République, who opened in 2021 at 39 boulevard du Temple in Paris, Joris, 24-year-old urban planner, said nothing else: “Lunch for 40 euros for two, entrance-Plat-Dsert, we can hardly find better. »»

In the room next door, Philippe, 60 -year -old photographer, agrees: “It’s a good compromise. It’s practical, not bad and not expensive. As we live alongside my partner, we come from time to time. But when there is a tail, you don’t wait. Because, setbacks of the medal, it is not uncommon to wait an hour outside before ordering!

Fashion well on his plate

“The queue is part of the folklore,” exclaims Enguerran Lavaud, director of operations for the Bouillon group, created by Pierre and Guillaume Moussié. Originally from Cantal, the two brothers brought these popular brands up to date in 2017 by launching the Pigalle broth, where tourists constitute half of the clientele. Fulgurating, the success of this Parisian establishment with 350 places which serves 1,600 to 1,800 covers per day encourages the two Auvergne to reoffend four years later in Republic.

In addition to a century and a half, the formula has not aged if we believe Christophe Joulie, a great actor of the Restoration who bought in 2007 with his father Gérard, the only survivor of the nineteenth century broths , Chartier: “Eating well for a low amount was the bet of the Chartier brothers when they created their broth in 1896 to 7, rue du Faubourg Montmartre. It is always ours since we offer each day an entrance-Plat-serial formula which does not exceed 16 euros. »»

Bouillon customers? “It’s Mr. Tout -le -Monde”, replies Claude Thomas who created -and sold since -the little alcide broth in Lille (North) in October 2022, in the premises which sheltered the gourmet restaurant Alcide, before opening Little Montmartre in Dunkirk (North) in 2023.

With family, lovers, friends, colleagues … There is no shortage of opportunities to take advantage of it. Young people will even celebrate their birthday. Like Marielle, a political science student, invited by three friends to the Bouillon République to blow the symbolic candle of her 23 years, placed on a chocolate fluff, under the applause of a brigade of waves “happy birthday! »»

Seated in front of a duck confit, Sarladaise apples, Claudio, 39 -year -old management controller, will share the note with two colleagues. “The service is fast, we eat in forty minutes, so we will not be late at the office which is only a few streets from here,” says this Parisian framework.

At the table opposite, three octogenarians are going while waiting for the entrance. “We come here from time to time with the friends. With my retirement as a shopkeeper, the addition is still in my means, ”says Monique, 88 years old.

The septuagenarians Alain and Michel meet here every Monday, still served by Mélanie. “We redo the world around a bottle of Côtes-du-Rhône. We are talking about trips, our respective children … And then, the atmosphere is friendly, we can meet. Today, we have exchanged in English with a Japanese, sitting at the table next door, ”says Michel, retired financial director.

The map of nostalgia

“White heads, families at Sunday lunch, young couples, friends, work appointments, a few students sometimes … whether it comes from time to time to have fun or make her canteen, customers is very varied, ”confirms Cherine Couesmes, who opened the Bouillon du Commerce (98 places, 200 covers per day) in Besançon (Doubs) in place of the eponymous brasserie, created in 1873.

“The fairly rich card allows everyone to find their account there, even if at the end of the service the choice is more limited,” says Clotilde, a history teacher at the initiative of a large family lunch bringing together three generations.

In the City Comtoise too, amateurs queue to taste a beef-carrots. First of all because “everything is homemade, even the pastries, under the leadership of chef Pierre Roca, assures the boss. In the morning, in the kitchen, it peels! “And also, she continues,” because the place attracts, with its mirrors and art nouveau woodwork classified to historic monuments. »Large of her mezzanine, the room has found the majesty of its volumes since March 2024.

The authentic and patinated decor contributes to the craze. The Chartier broth is the best example. The place has retained its late 19th century decor, also registered in the inventory of historic monuments, but also the traditional outfit of its servers: black vest, matching bow tie and white apron. These perpetuate, in a very theatrical gesture, the calculation of the addition on the paper tablecloth!

The Bouillon République is known, for the 1930s’ 1930s marquetry panels of Charles Spindler which adorn one of the salons upstairs and the woodwork of Albert Erny, made for the Alsatian brewery at Jenny who had occupied the premises since 1932 .

Fleury of Art Nouveau created in 1906 rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, the Bouillon Julien, also classified as a historic monument, can be proud of his cuba mahogany bar signed Louis Majorelle and his stained glass, masterpieces of the Maître-Verrier Louis Trezel, representative of the nymphs. By putting the codes of yesteryear up to date in a frame of another era, the broths are good.

* Professional union with 9,000 members in France.